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AMT 1983 Chevrolet Camaro Z28

RELATED TOPICS: AMT
Camarobox
AMT No. AMT1051/12
Molded Colors: Chrome, white, clear
Scale: 1/25
MSRP: $22.95
Pros: High level of molded-in detail, ease of assembly, decals
Cons: Shallow tub-type interior, mounting holes for headlights and taillights, feed tags on wheels
Camaro2
Camaro2
Camaro3
THIS IS THE SECOND YEAR of the third generation Camaro, a body style that remained in production for 9 years. The included engine is a 305 V8 with GM’s infamous fail prone, Cross-Fire electric fuel injection system.

Chassis plate and floor pan have good molded-in detail and the front and rear suspension are built from multiple parts. This allows for detail painting of the springs and shock absorbers.

Chrome-plated disc brakes come with calipers for all four wheels. Note the wheels are attached to the tree at their outer edge, making them difficult to remove. I repaired the damage with a Molotow Liquid Chrome pen then brushed flat aluminum paint into the spokes’ recessed areas.

The wheels here are too wide for the included tires. Thin the wheel inners before joining them. Beware, the holes in the wheels are larger than mounting pins. Epoxy helps compensate for the sloppy fit and attaches the wheels.

The engine and transmission build with halves split vertically. Valve covers, intake manifold, and exhaust manifolds are added next.

Drive belts for the accessories and pulleys are molded as two pieces, one with a power steering pump. An air cleaner housing covers most of the intake manifold.

Almost all of the engine gets painted black, hiding most of the detail even after using black hues. A one-piece exhaust includes a crossover pipe, catalytic converter, and dual mufflers and tailpipes, with shallow depressions to appear open.

A shallow, tub-style interior has armrest and door handle pieces, bucket seats and a rear bench, all engraved with the pattern for cloth. The center console is molded as part of the tub. Instrument panel engraving is spot-on, responding well to detail painting. Dry-brush or scrape away the paint to detail the gauge faces.

Body proportions appear right and the aero package on the lower edge of the car is well defined, making it easier to paint the lower parts a different color.

There weren’t any mold lines that needed attention on my sample but a few sink marks located on the front bumper needed a bit of filler.

Front and rear fascia fit the body well with sufficient gluing surfaces. The spoiler, hood and glass parts also fit well and the rear glass even includes defroster lines.

Sport mirrors have separate chrome faces and the front inner fenders are molded as part of the body, requiring masking or brush-painting if you don’t want them body color.

The headlights and taillights are the kit’s weakness.

All lenses are molded in clear and a decal is provided to apply to the backs before attaching. Lenses have pins that fit into holes in the rear body panel but when assembled the pins are still visible. Serious builders will want to fill the holes and paint the lenses the correct colors. Headlight lenses attach to the front fascia and round holes in the bumper and nubs on the lenses help locate them. Paint silver or chrome behind the lenses, but note the holes will appear as dark spots in the center. I’d fill them then apply foil or paint where the lenses attach.

Decals are high quality and there’s a set of tan and brown stripes. Apply these to the bottom edges of the body. I masked and painted these areas instead. There are decals for the side and rear scripts, but the molded-in scripts are crisply molded and can be painted.

I used the kit decals for the black on the hood, side markers, front parking lights, wheels cap, and the front emblem. A nice touch is the inclusion of extra small decals.      

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